Olivier BAROIN
JEWELRY BY SUZANNE BELPERRON (1900-1983)

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BRACELET CHRISTIES
Suzanne Belperron - "Tube" Bracelet, platinum and white gold, antique diamonds, 1935; Courtesy Christie's; archives of the expert, Olivier Baroin, Paris Three-dimensional bracelet composed of 10 interlocking links with a tube design cut at an angle. White gold and platinum set with half-cut and old-cut diamonds created by Suzanne Belperron in 1935. This impressive piece of jewelry—which perfectly illustrates the creator's modernity—is one of the major pieces of her work- Vogue Paris, advertisement for Jean Herz Suzanne Belperron, February 1948, p. 34.

The Expert

In 1983, Olivier Baroin entered the BJOH School (Higher School of Jewelry) through competitive examination. At the age of 18, he obtained his diploma as a jeweler and began working in a workshop. Concurrently, he attended Art History courses to become an antique dealer. In 1998, he established himself in the 16th arrondissement of Paris as a jeweler-antique dealer. In his workshop, he creates only commissioned pieces and specializes in antique jewelry. In 2001, he became an expert in antique jewelry. Passionate about the work of Suzanne Belperron, in 2008 he acquired, in addition to the creator's personal effects, all of her archives, rediscovered in her apartment, including registers kept daily from 1937 to 1974 by the brilliant creator. On September 23, 2008, Suzanne Belperron's archives were the subject of a private deed of assignment—registered in Versailles on October 1, 2008—by virtue of which the last universal legatee mandated Olivier Baroin to perpetuate—among other things—"the future of the expertise of all the work created by Madame Suzanne Belperron." It was on this occasion that the first monograph dedicated to the artist was produced, stemming from the desire to make the discovered information accessible to the widest audience. In 2013, Olivier Baroin established himself in the Galerie de la Madeleine, 9 Place de la Madeleine in Paris. Under the name La Golconde, the spirit of Suzanne Belperron inspires this universe specialized in antique jewelry. Now having become the specialist in Suzanne Belperron, he authenticates pieces by this artist for international auction houses and participates in the most prestigious auctions of the creator's jewelry.

Suzanne Belperron (Saint-Claude 1900 - Paris 1983)

From the Jura massif, Suzanne grew up immersed in local traditions, including the art of stone cutting. Her native city of Saint-Claude notably became, between 1885 and 1929, an important global center for diamond cutting.

"After obtaining first prize from the École des Beaux-Arts in Besançon in 1918, Madeleine Suzanne Vuillerme began her career as a design modeler alongside Jeanne Boivin, who hired her—as early as 1919—to succeed her deceased husband."

Thirteen years later, Suzanne, now Madame Jean Belperron and co-director of the House since 1923, grew weary of seeing her image reflected in René Boivin's mirror. In February 1932, she resigned, leaving behind an indelible mark. In the spring of that same year, her friend and confidant Bernard Herz—a dealer in fine pearls and precious stones—entrusted her with the reins of his company.

The talented Suzanne would then be able to flourish in complete freedom. Strengthened by their exhilarating complicity, Suzanne would henceforth be counted among the most fashionable creators of the roaring thirties.

[caption id="attachment_4310" align="alignleft" width="727"]Suzanne Belperron on her balcony in Paris wearing an embroidered silk kimono © Archives Olivier Baroin, Paris. Suzanne Belperron on her balcony in Paris
wearing an embroidered silk kimono
© Archives Olivier Baroin, Paris.[/caption]

Endowed with a strong personality, the artist had only one motto: "my style is my signature." This explains why, unlike most great jewelers, she never signed her jewelry, which nevertheless continues to inspire many of them. On March 28, 1983, Suzanne Belperron passed away in her Parisian apartment. Twenty years earlier, she had been elevated to the rank of Knight of the Legion of Honor, an official recognition of her talent as a jewelry creator.

 

Bibliography

Olivier Baroin collaborated with Sylvie Raulet to produce the first monograph dedicated to the creator Suzanne Belperron. Sylvie Raulet and Olivier Baroin - Suzanne Belperron, hardcover / 352 pages - 500 color illustrations, published by Antique Collector's Club (English version), Bibliothèque des Arts (French version), 2011

Contact

Olivier BAROIN
La Golconde 9 Place de la Madeleine 75008 Paris +33 (0)6 71 82 48 03 baroin.olivier@gmail.com https://olivierbaroin.fr/

[UFE number : 459]

UFE Olivier Baroin